Wednesday, October 04, 2006

imi place

So over the past few weeks a variety of things have occurred that have ticked me off and just created a general bad mood, a specter if you will, hanging over my experience here in Moldova. I won't go into the laundry list, but rather would like to push aside the relatively few people and events that have made my life difficult, and focus instead on the things and people here that I appreciate and enjoy.
This has been on my blog "to-do" list for quite some time, and I can think of no better time but the present to reminisce about all that is good here.
One of the first things that comes to mind is the custom of saying "buna ziua", which literally means "good day". While not completely obligatory, it is standard custom to give some sort of greeting to the folks that you know while ambling through the village, and even to the folks that you don't know. Some may find it somewhat tiring or trite, but I like the idea of a social construct that makes you look even strangers in the eye, acknowledge their existence, and bid them the best in their pursuits for the day. It is a heck of a lot better than getting the middle finger from someone while driving on the highway to work.
Fresh fruits and veggies are another positive facet that comes immediately to mind. I simply cannot express how amazing it is to step out of my house to a collection of six varieties of grapes that I can nosh on. Just here at the house we have apples, pears, plums, cherries, raspberries and strawberries. I have a great memory of returning home this summer, road weary from my slog back from Chisinau, and upon entering the gate, climbing a cherry tree with my host brother and snacking away until we simply couldn't fit any more in our stomachs.
My old host family that I stayed with during training used to bring cauldrons of raspberries into the house. We are talking about 2-4 kilograms of raspberries at a time, which we would simply down by the handful.Absolutely amazing. When asked by locals to compare countries, this is one point that I frequently bring up as being a strong point for Moldova. The fruits and veggies taste 10 times better here. I simply have never had a bad tomato in Moldova, while in the states I have lost count of the number of mealy, tasteless ones I have encountered.
True, the winter and spring are a bit lacking in freshies, and that is where the American system of shipping and refrigeration triumphs. In my eyes though, that brief period of wanting just makes the summer and fall and the sweeter.
Another thing I like is the genuine small town folks who will go out of their way to help a relative stranger. I can't count the number of folks who have given me free rides into our regional center. There is one guy who doesn't even live in our village who has treated me to several "taxi" rides, not only taking me to the town where I wished to go, but to the very doorstep I was seeking. The pinnacle of generosity was witnessed in this domain a few weeks ago while I was waiting in a neighboring village, trying to hitchhike back home. A gentleman I had met merely once stopped by the side of the road to ask how life was treating me. He then turned his vehicle around and drove me back to my village for free, even though he was headed in the complete opposite direction. Some may look at this as a small favor, and true it was merely 8 kilometers, but keep in mind that gas costs the same here as in the states, and your average teachers salary is less than $1000.00 a year.
Many of the other things I find to be nice sort of depend on perspective, but are pleasant for me none the less. A good example of this is the lack of street lights in the village. While this does make things difficult sometimes, and to reflect on the cause of this is a bit sad (mostly a lack of money for the bulbs and electricity, as the fixtures are all in place, rusting relics of the soviet period). I absolutely love the fact that I can see most of the stars in the Milky Way. One could argue also that people get along just fine without buring up all the extra kilowatts. In a similar vein, it takes a very long time via public transit to get to my village, and thus to other modes of transportation. I never have to deal with the noise and pollution of such conveniences though. I heard a plane fly over our village once in the 18 months I have been in Moldova, and it dawned on me what an unusual sound it was in this setting, we simply don't have the noise pollution here that is present in the city. The air is noticeably cleaner as well.
I can wax poetic forever, as those who have been subjected to my diatribes well know, but in short, I just wanted to say that no matter what amount of "baliga" you have to wade through in life, there are always positive things to appreciate if you just take time to recognize them.

3 comments:

Kimber said...

i remember what real fruit used to taste like. i don't even bother to buy the nasty, tainted and tasteless and overpriced produce in the states anymore. i rely on multivitamins! how sad. my tastebuds shall live vicariously through yours!

Anonymous said...

Whether the first rays of sun are dreaded or welcomed,really depends upon one's perspective,as do so many things in life. After being awake for more than 24 hours and getting my 8th or 9th call of the night,I did not welcome the sunlight.As I started the 60+ mile trek to pronounce someone dead,I questioned the value of(and my desire to continue)what I was doing.My first human(sort of) encounter was with a man in a jacked-up pickup who nearly ran me off the road. The second, was a smiling young man who held the door for me as I hurried in out of the cold to grab a cup of coffee for the road. The next page came in as I was going in and out of cell reception! Finally,I reached the Nursing Home Aide,and instructed her in how to ease her patient's labored breathing,telling her I would check back soon. Clearly stressed, she thanked me repeatedly for helping her help her patient. The sky was getting streaky red, and I was getting lost in the countryside. Signs not where they were supposed to be, illegible directions to the home. Just as I was ready to throw my cell phone out the window,I got 3 bars, and a message....from the RN who was in charge of the dead woman's care. When I reached her,she thanked me for helping this family and guided me to their home.The patient's(probably 70y/o)son met me at the door. He had been caring for his 93y/o mother by himself for weeks. Bathing,feeding,medicating and turning her,in the hospital bed in the front room, so that she could look out over the Blueridge Mountains."Thank you so much for coming way out here" he said,"I was afraid you got lost,or had a flat.I'm glad you're alright." The sun was sparkling through the trees by then, and I noticed clusters of deep purple wild flowers at my feet,the gentleman's broad welcoming smile and the warm sun on my back.
Buna Ziua Ian! The World needs more people with your perspective.

Kimber said...

Hi Again, Ian.

Could I have your permission to print part of this post in my new magazine for sailors? It's called "jack tar" and it's a homemade 'zine for working class sailors. lots of tallship sailors, too. i figured they could read about what another sailor was doing while he wasn't sailing.

I'd like to print where you start with "One fo the first things that comes to mind...." and everything after that. Please email me to confirm if this is ok at jacktarzine(at)gmail.com

i will send you a copy!